The ‘ retiwali dargah ‘ has been a solace for the grief stricken devotees over the years. Visitors and people who come asking for dua call it the ‘ retiwali dargah ‘ [ sand dargah ]. As preparations are underway for celebrating the 168th Urs it is not so difficult to find the dargah of Syed Shah sadullah Naqshbandi lit up like a bride. In the maze of streets in the Riqabgunj area near charminar the dargah is not so difficult to locate in daytime either as one has to follow the tall white and green dome and ask for directions.
It is a dargah where people offer rose petals and then leave their palm prints on the sand heaped on the grave.
“ Syed Shah Sadaullah Naqshbandi spread the word about Naqushbandi order of Sufism in Deccan before anyone else. Born in the northern region of Afghanistan he visited Delhi for an ailment and became a follower of Ghulam Ali shah Naqshbandi. During Haj he had a dream and he came here to spread the word of Naqshbandi in Deccan. Initially he stayed in Masjid Almas near Shahalibanda for two years then he moved to Moghalpura before settling down at this location after purchasing a garden called “Bagh Bee Jaan “ informs the current sajjada nashin Syed Shah Muhammad Khizer who is the seventh in line.
Irrespective of religion women and men come here with heads covered and bow down at the grave in the centre where Syed Shah Sadullah Naqshbandi is buried. Some stand for hours with their palms completely buried in the sand. “ The grave is covered with sand as it was his desire to be buried in a simple grave. The dome was built by Afzal Ud Dowla and it has a sense of incompleteness about it “ says Khizer.
No chader no sandal no qawwali and no songs the Naqshbandi dargah has a quietness of a different spiritual order. “ Named after Baha-Ud-Din Naqshband Bukhari, the Naqshbandi strain of Sufism came to Deccan with Syed Shah Sadaullah. Any time of the day or night there used to be at least 150 or 200 people praying and meditating with him. He used to take care of their food and stay and refused royal patronage” informs Khizer.
A little distance from the Dargah is the Masjid ul Aqsa which has some of the most intricate pattern on its ceiling.
“ When suffering and grief stricken people came for help to Syed Shah Sadullah, he would grieve and cry along with them. And people realized here was someone who could understand and lighten their grief. And the tradition continues when people leave their prints on sand “ says Khizer.
Courtesy THE HINDU